The Hermès Bag Guide: Birkin, Kelly, Constance, Evelyne, Picotin, Lindy — History, Leathers and 2026 Prices

Hermès' bag range runs from accessible classics to the most sought-after bags in the world: the Evelyne (1978), Picotin (2002), Lindy (2007) and Garden Party at one end; the quota bags — Kelly (1935, renamed 1956), Constance (1959) and Birkin (1984) — at the other, in leathers from Togo and Epsom to Swift, Chèvre and Box. This guide covers the history, every must-know model, the leather guide, January 2026 US prices and which bag suits you, with examples from our authenticated pre-owned Hermès edit.

A short history: saddlery to the Birkin

Hermès began as a Paris harness maker in 1837 and only turned to handbags in the twentieth century, which is why its bags are built with saddlery techniques. The Bolide, Kelly, Constance, Evelyne, Birkin, Picotin and Lindy each appeared at a distinct moment, and most still carry equestrian details from the original workshop.

1837: a harness workshop in Paris

Thierry Hermès opened his workshop in 1837 to make harnesses for carriage horses. Saddlery remains the house's technical root. The hand-sewn saddle stitch and the touret, the leather turn-lock on the Birkin and Kelly, both come from tack-room craft.

When our specialists examine a bag, the stitching is among the first things they read. A saddle stitch sewn by hand with two needles sits differently from machine work, and that difference traces directly back to harness making.

1923 to 1959: the first bags

The Bolide arrived in 1923 and is widely cited as the first zipped handbag. It established that Hermès could translate travel and equestrian goods into something carried every day.

In 1935 came the Sac à dépêches, a structured bag with a flap and strap. In 1956 Grace Kelly was photographed holding one in front of her body to shield her pregnancy from the press, and the bag became the Kelly. The Constance followed in 1959, named for the designer's daughter and defined by its oversized H clasp.

1978 to 2007: the modern classics

The Evelyne (1978) was conceived as a grooming bag for the stables, marked by its perforated H. In 1984 Jane Birkin met chief executive Jean-Louis Dumas on a flight and described the bag she could not find. The result was the Birkin, now the most recognised bag in the world.

The Picotin (2002) took its open bucket shape from a horse's feed bucket. The Lindy (2007) introduced a soft, two-way silhouette that can be carried by hand or on the shoulder. The Garden Party and Herbag complete the core range.

Why the history matters to a buyer

Knowing when a model appeared helps you date a bag and spot anomalies. A Birkin cannot predate 1984, and a Picotin cannot predate 2002. Bags from earlier eras, especially Kellys and Constances in Box calf, sit within our vintage Hermès edit, where the saddlery heritage is often most visible in the leather and stitching.

Birkin

The Birkin is Hermès' most recognised bag: a hand-carried tote introduced in 1984, made in 25, 30, 35 and 40 cm, most often in Togo, and priced from $13,500 in US boutiques after the January 2026 increase. Because boutiques allocate it rather than stock it openly, pre-owned examples regularly trade above retail.

Origin: a conversation on a flight

The bag began with a conversation between Jane Birkin and Hermès chief executive Jean-Louis Dumas on a flight in 1984. She wanted a practical bag large enough for everyday life. The result borrowed the Kelly's proportions and saddlery construction and turned them into a roomier, open-topped carryall.

Anatomy

Every Birkin shares the same architecture, which our specialists check piece by piece:

• Two rolled handles, sized for the hand or forearm rather than the shoulder
• A flap secured by two sangles (straps) that pass over the touret
• A padlock and keys, carried in a leather clochette
• Saddle stitching throughout, inherited from the house's harness workshop

Sizes and 2026 US prices

The number refers to the bag's width in centimetres. Togo, a pebbled calf that hides scratches and slouches gently, is the default leather.

The 25 and 30 suit most daily use. The 35 and 40 carry a laptop or a weekend's essentials.

The quota reality

Walking into a boutique and buying a Birkin off the shelf is rarely possible. Allocation is at the boutique's discretion, so supply stays far below demand. That gap is why, in our own catalogue, a pre-owned Birkin 25 sells at a median of 285% of its boutique price, and why a pristine Birkin in a sought-after colour and hardware combination can cost more pre-owned than new.

For buyers, the secondary market offers what the boutique often cannot: immediate choice of size, leather and colour. Browse our authenticated pre-owned Birkin edit, or weigh the open tote against its structured sibling in our Birkin vs Kelly guide.

Kelly

The Kelly is Hermès' structured top-handle bag. It was introduced in 1935 as the Sac à dépêches and renamed in 1956 after Grace Kelly, by then Princess of Monaco, used it to shield her pregnancy from photographers. Alongside the Birkin and Constance, it is one of the three quota bags boutiques allocate rather than simply sell.

From Sac à dépêches to Kelly

The original was a trapezoid bag with a single handle, a flap and a strap-and-turnlock closure. After the 1956 photographs, the house adopted the name its clients were already using. The core silhouette has changed little since.

Sellier vs Retourne

Every Kelly is built one of two ways, and the choice changes how the bag looks and wears.

Sizes: 20, 25, 28, 32

The number is the width of the base in centimetres. The Mini Kelly 20 is the smallest, and most buyers wear it crossbody. The 25 is the current favourite, while the 28 and 32 are the traditional day sizes, roomy enough for a full day's essentials.

Kelly prices in 2026

US boutique prices after the January 2026 increase:

• Kelly 25 Togo Retourne: $13,700
• Kelly 25 Chèvre Sellier: $14,700
• Mini Kelly 20 Epsom: $11,400

US prices for the Kelly 28 and 32 have not been confirmed since the increase. On the pre-owned market, Kellys in sought-after colours and hardware typically trade above retail because boutique allocation is so limited.

The strap and hardware

Every Kelly comes with a single rolled handle and a detachable shoulder strap. It closes with two sangles that pass through the touret, and a clochette holds the numbered padlock and keys. Our specialists confirm the strap, lock and keys are original and present, because an incomplete set affects value. You can browse current examples in our authenticated pre-owned Kelly edit.

Constance

The Constance is Hermès' third quota bag: a compact flap bag from 1959, defined by its oversized H clasp and sold mainly in two sizes, 18 and 24. It is allocated by boutiques rather than sold freely, which is why clean pre-owned examples are often the most direct route to one.

Origins and the H clasp

The Constance was introduced in 1959 and named for the designer's daughter. Its signature is the H clasp, a single metal letter that swivels to close the flap and doubles as the bag's only ornament. Our specialists check that the clasp sits flush, turns cleanly and matches the rest of the hardware in finish.

Sizes and how they carry

• Constance 18: the compact version, sized for a phone, cards and keys.
• Constance 24: the larger size, roomy enough for a small wallet and daily essentials.

Both are worn on the shoulder or crossbody, making the Constance the hands-free counterpoint to the hand-carried Birkin.

Leathers

Epsom is the modern default: embossed, firm and light, it keeps the flap crisp and resists scratches. Vintage Constances often appear in glossy Box calf, which develops a patina but shows scratches more readily.

Quota status and price reference

US boutique pricing for the Constance 18 and 24 is not confirmed after the January 2026 increase. In Europe, the Constance 18 in Epsom is listed at €7,300, a useful benchmark when judging pre-owned prices, which typically sit above retail. Browse our authenticated Constance edit to compare sizes, leathers and hardware side by side.

Evelyne, Picotin & Lindy

The Evelyne, Picotin and Lindy are the Hermès classics most buyers own first: soft, practical and priced from $2,525 to $11,800 in the US after the January 2026 increase. All three come most often in Clemence, the soft, heavy, slouchy calf that suits relaxed shapes and forgives daily wear.

Evelyne (1978)

The Evelyne began as a grooming bag for carrying brushes and tack-room tools, which explains its perforated H. The punched pattern was a working detail, letting the bag breathe and shed debris. It became the house's defining casual crossbody.

• Evelyne 16: $2,525, the lowest entry point to a leather Hermès bag in the core range.
• Evelyne 23: $4,275, large enough for daily essentials.

Clemence is the usual leather, and our specialists see it age well: it softens and slouches without scuffing easily. Browse current examples in our pre-owned Evelyne edit.

Picotin (2002)

The Picotin takes its shape from a horse's feed bucket: an open, upright body with two handles and a strap that cinches the top. It is a hand-carried bag rather than a crossbody, and the open top makes it quick to use.

• Picotin 18: $3,975
• Picotin 22: $4,275

Clemence is again the default, giving the bucket a soft, rounded slump. The open top is the trade-off, so check interiors for marks when buying pre-owned.

Lindy (2007)

The Lindy is a two-way soft bag. It is carried by its handles or worn on a detachable shoulder strap, and its relaxed, horizontal body holds more than its footprint suggests. It is the most expensive of the three, priced close to the quota bags.

• Mini Lindy: $9,050
• Lindy 26: $10,800
• Lindy 30: $11,800

Clemence gives the Lindy its characteristic slouch. Swift, which is smooth with lightly shiny, rich colour, shows scratches more readily but buffs well. For more strap-carried styles, see our Hermès shoulder bags.

Garden Party, Bolide & Herbag

The Garden Party, Bolide and Herbag are the relaxed side of the range: open-to-buy styles you can find in a boutique without a purchase history, built for daily use. The Garden Party is the house canvas tote, the Bolide is the oldest design here, and the Herbag is the most practical.

Garden Party: the canvas tote

The Garden Party is an open-top tote with a single snap closure and two flat handles. It is the most accessible way into Hermès construction at tote scale. Most examples combine canvas with leather trim, and an all-leather version in Negonda, a grained calf, adds weight and polish.

US boutique prices after the January 2026 increase:

The 30 suits daily carry. The 36 takes a laptop and files. Our specialists look closely at the canvas corners and handle edges, where wear shows first. Browse our authenticated Garden Party edit for sizes and trims.

Bolide: the first zipped bag

The Bolide dates to 1923 and is widely credited as the first bag fitted with a zip, a closure Hermès adopted early. Its domed, rounded silhouette has barely changed in a century, which makes vintage and current examples look close kin. It comes in sizes from mini to travel. Collectors who want a zipped, structured bag without quota allocation often start with the Bolide.

Herbag: the interchangeable body

The Herbag is a Kelly-shaped bag with a canvas body and a leather flap and top. Its defining feature is that the body detaches, so one leather frame can carry different canvas bodies in different colours. That modularity makes it one of the most practical Hermès bags to own, and a light one to carry.

The Hermès leather guide: Togo, Epsom, Clemence, Swift, Chèvre, Box, Barenia

Seven leathers cover most of the Hermès bags you will meet: grained calf (Togo, Epsom, Clemence) for everyday durability, smooth calf (Swift, Box) for colour and polish, Chèvre goatskin for lightness, and Barenia for patina. The leather decides how a bag holds its shape, how it handles scratches and how it ages, so it matters as much as the model.

Togo: the forgiving default

Togo is a pebbled calf with a visible, irregular grain that disguises scratches well. It has a gentle slouch, so a Togo bag softens slightly at the sides over the years without collapsing. It is the default leather for the Birkin and appears often on the Kelly Retourne.

Epsom: firm, light, shape-keeping

Epsom has been used since 2003. It is calf with an embossed grain, which makes the texture uniform and the hide firm, light and scratch-resistant. It holds a crisp silhouette, which is why it suits the Kelly Sellier, the Constance and the Mini Kelly. The trade-off is a stiffer hand and less of the relaxed character that softer leathers develop.

Clemence: soft, heavy, slouchy

Clemence is softer and heavier than Togo, and slouchier. It forgives scratches and relaxes with use. Hermès favours it for unstructured shapes such as the Picotin, Evelyne and Lindy. On larger sizes the extra weight is noticeable on the shoulder.

Swift: smooth, with the richest colour

Swift is a smooth, lightly shiny calf that takes dye beautifully, so colours read deeper and more saturated than on grained leathers. It does scratch, but light marks usually buff out with a fingertip. You will see it on the Lindy, the Kelly and smaller pieces.

Chèvre: fine-grain goatskin

Chèvre is goatskin with a fine, tight grain and a slight sheen. It is light and durable, and it holds its structure well. It is a classic choice for the Kelly Sellier and for wallets.

Box and Barenia: leathers that patina

Box is a glossy smooth calf, the leather of many vintage Kelly and Constance bags. It scratches readily, but over decades it develops a patina that collectors prize. Barenia is a waxy saddle leather taken from the house's equestrian roots. It marks easily and darkens into a deep patina, and it is mostly found on heritage pieces.

Exotics

Hermès also works in alligator, crocodile, ostrich and lizard. These sit above the calf leathers in rarity and cost. They need more careful handling and storage.

How to read leather when buying pre-owned

Match the leather to the life the bag will lead. Togo and Clemence suit daily carry, Epsom suits anyone who wants structure that stays sharp, and Swift, Box and Barenia reward owners who welcome visible character. When our specialists assess a pre-owned piece, they read wear in the context of the leather. A buffed scratch on Swift and a softened Clemence body are expected behaviour, not defects.

Hermès prices in 2026

In January 2026, a Birkin 25 in Togo costs $13,500 at a US Hermès boutique and a Kelly 25 costs $13,700. Entry classics such as the Evelyne 16 start at $2,525. These figures follow a 6-9% increase on core bags, and for quota models the boutique price is rarely what you actually pay. Pre-owned trades above it.

Quota bags at retail

The Birkin climbs $1,400 per size: $13,500 for the 25, $14,900 for the 30 and $16,300 for the 35. Kelly prices depend on construction and leather. A Kelly 25 in Togo Retourne is $13,700, the same size in Chèvre Sellier is $14,700 and the Mini Kelly 20 in Epsom is $11,400.

US prices for the Kelly 28, Kelly 32 and Constance 18/24 were not confirmed at the time of writing. In Europe, the Constance 18 in Epsom is €7,300. The Kelly Dépêches 25, a briefcase descendant of the original 1935 bag, sits at $11,100.

The accessible classics

You can buy these from the boutique without a purchase history:

• Evelyne: $2,525 (16) to $4,275 (23)
• Picotin: $3,975 (18) and $4,275 (22)
• Garden Party: $3,300 (30) and $3,600 (36) in canvas, or $4,775 and $5,150 in Negonda leather
• Lindy: $9,050 (Mini), $10,800 (26) and $11,800 (30)

What the January 2026 increase means

Hermès raised core bag prices by 6-9% this January. The house adjusts prices regularly, so each increase lifts the floor under the pre-owned market. Our specialists see resale asks for recent-season pieces move up within weeks of a boutique change.

Pre-owned versus retail for quota bags

Boutiques allocate the Birkin, Kelly and Constance rather than selling them on demand. A buyer who wants a specific size, leather and colour now pays a premium on the resale market. In our own catalogue, a pre-owned Birkin 25 sells at a median of 285% of its 2026 boutique price and a Kelly 25 at 270%.

The accessible classics usually trade nearer to, or below, retail. For how this compares across brands, see our analysis of which handbags hold their value.

Which Hermès bag should you buy?

Choose by budget first, then by how you carry. At US retail, under $5,000 buys an Evelyne, Picotin or Garden Party. Around $9,000 to $12,000 buys a Lindy or Mini Kelly. A Birkin or Kelly 25 starts at $13,500, and pre-owned examples usually trade above that because boutiques allocate them.

Under $5,000: the first Hermès

The Evelyne 16 ($2,525) is the lowest entry point to a leather Hermès bag. It is a hands-free crossbody in forgiving Clemence. The Picotin 18 ($3,975) and 22 ($4,275) suit buyers who want an open bucket carried by hand. The Garden Party 30 and 36 in canvas ($3,300 and $3,600) are the practical choice for a work tote.

$9,000 to $12,000: the step up

The Lindy (Mini $9,050, 26 $10,800, 30 $11,800) carries by hand or on the shoulder and slouches comfortably in Clemence or Swift. The Mini Kelly 20 in Epsom ($11,400) and the Kelly Dépêches 25 ($11,100) give you Kelly structure at a smaller size or in a different format.

$13,500 and above: the quota bags

The Birkin 25, 30 and 35 ($13,500 to $16,300 in Togo) are hand-carried and roomy, and they have the strongest resale record of the range. The Kelly 25 ($13,700 in Togo Retourne, $14,700 in Chèvre Sellier) adds a shoulder strap and a more formal line. The Constance is the compact crossbody of the three. It is quoted at €7,300 in Europe for the 18 in Epsom.

Match the leather to your use

For daily wear, our specialists steer buyers towards Togo or Clemence, which hide scratches. Epsom suits structured bags you want to keep crisp. Box and Swift reward careful owners with patina and colour.

The quick checklist

If you are still undecided, the lines below map common priorities to the bag that answers them.

Authentication and condition before buying pre-owned

Before buying a pre-owned Hermès bag, verify four things: the blind stamp, the heat stamp, the saddle stitching and the hardware. Then judge condition at the corners and handles, where wear shows first. Our specialists check every point below before a piece reaches the edit.

Blind stamp and heat stamp

The blind stamp is a letter, sometimes set inside a shape, that encodes the year and era of production. It should be consistent with the bag's leather, hardware and construction. The heat stamp reads "HERMÈS PARIS MADE IN FRANCE" and should be crisp, evenly spaced and correctly accented.

Stitching, touret and hardware

Hermès bags are saddle stitched by hand. That produces slightly angled, tight, even stitches rather than the flat uniformity of machine work. On a Birkin or Kelly, the touret, padlock and keys should carry numbers that match, and engravings should be clean. Our guide on how to authenticate a Birkin or Kelly covers each detail in depth.

Corners and handles

Corners rub first, so check for scuffing, colour loss or exposed fibres. Look at the handles for darkening from hand oils, cracked edge glazing and any loss of shape. Also look inside for pen marks and odours, and check hardware for scratches or lifting plating. Our Condition Guide defines how each grade reflects these signs.

Every bag we sell is authenticated in-house and backed by our Authenticity Guarantee.

Shop authenticated pre-owned Hermès

Our edit of authenticated pre-owned Hermès gathers the quota bags and the accessible classics in one place, each piece examined by our in-house specialists before it is listed. Pre-owned is also the most direct route to a Birkin, Kelly or Constance without waiting for a boutique allocation.

Browse the full range

The complete Hermès bags edit runs from a Clemence Evelyne 16 to Togo Birkins and Epsom Constances. Our specialists confirm the blind stamp, heat stamp, saddle stitching and hardware on every bag, then grade its corners, handles and interior for condition.

Top-handle and structured styles

If you already know you want a structured silhouette, start with our Hermès handbags. That edit focuses on the Birkin, Kelly, Kelly Dépêches and Lindy, the bags most buyers compare side by side on size, leather and hardware finish.

What has just arrived

Quota bags in sought-after combinations rarely stay listed for long. Our new arrivals show each piece as it clears authentication, which makes them the place to check first for a specific size, colour or leather.

Hermes Garden Party PM Tote Beige Black Toile H Negonda$1,680

Hermes Evelyne TPM Handbag$5,150

Hermes Picotin Lock PM Trench Silver Taurillon Handbag$6,750

Hermes Shoulder Bag Evelyne 23 Gold$9,900

Shop authenticated pre-owned Hermès

Frequently asked questions

What is the most popular Hermès bag?

The Birkin is the most recognised and most requested Hermès bag, with the Kelly a close second. Introduced in 1984 after Jane Birkin's conversation with Jean-Louis Dumas on a flight, it comes in sizes 25, 30, 35 and 40, most often in Togo leather. Boutiques allocate it, so demand stays well ahead of supply. Among the more accessible styles, the Evelyne and Picotin are the most popular first purchases.

What is a Hermès quota bag?

A quota bag is a style that Hermès allocates through its boutiques rather than stocking freely. The Birkin, Kelly and Constance are the three core quota bags. Boutiques decide who is offered one and typically favour established clients. Because supply is controlled, pre-owned examples often trade above boutique retail. This is why the resale market for these three bags is the strongest in the luxury category.

How much is a Birkin in 2026?

Hermès raised prices on core bags by roughly 6 to 9 percent in January 2026. US boutique prices for a Birkin in Togo are now $13,500 for the 25, $14,900 for the 30 and $16,300 for the 35. Exotic skins, special hardware and limited editions cost considerably more. Pre-owned, sought-after sizes and colours in excellent condition usually sell above these retail figures because boutique supply is allocated.

How much is a Kelly in 2026?

After the January 2026 increase, US boutique prices are $13,700 for a Kelly 25 Retourne in Togo, $14,700 for a Kelly 25 Sellier in Chèvre and $11,400 for a Mini Kelly 20 in Epsom. The Kelly Dépêches 25 in Epsom is $11,100. US prices for the Kelly 28 and 32 have not been confirmed. As a quota bag, the Kelly often trades above retail pre-owned, especially in the smaller sizes.

What is the difference between Togo and Epsom leather?

Togo is a pebbled calfskin with a natural, irregular grain. It hides scratches and relaxes into a gentle slouch over time, and it is the default leather for the Birkin. Epsom is calfskin embossed with a fine, uniform grain, which makes it firmer, lighter and better at holding a crisp shape. Introduced in 2003, Epsom is favoured for structured bags such as the Kelly Sellier and Constance. Both leathers handle daily wear well.

Which Hermès leather is most durable?

Epsom and Togo are the most durable everyday leathers. Epsom's embossed grain resists scratches and keeps its shape, while Togo's pebbled surface disguises light marks. Clemence is also forgiving but softens and slouches with use. Chèvre goatskin is light and hard-wearing. Swift and Box are more delicate and scratch more readily, although Swift marks often buff out and Box develops an attractive patina. Barenia marks easily but ages into a deep, waxy patina.

What is the cheapest Hermès bag?

Among the classic styles, the Evelyne 16 is the most accessible bag at $2,525 in the US after the January 2026 increase. The Garden Party 30 in canvas follows at $3,300, then the Picotin 18 at $3,975. The Evelyne 23 and Picotin 22 are both $4,275. None of these are quota bags, which is why they are the usual entry point to the house before a Birkin, Kelly or Constance.

Is the Evelyne a good first Hermès bag?

Yes. The Evelyne is one of the most practical first Hermès bags. It was introduced in 1978 as a grooming bag for horses and is a crossbody with an adjustable canvas strap, the perforated H on one side and an easy open top. It usually comes in soft, scratch-forgiving Clemence. Prices start at $2,525 for the Evelyne 16 and reach $4,275 for the 23. It is not a quota bag, so a purchase history is not needed.

What is Sellier vs Retourne on a Kelly?

Sellier and Retourne describe how a Kelly is constructed. A Sellier Kelly is stitched on the outside in the saddle-maker's manner. This gives it sharp edges, a rigid structure and a more formal look, usually in firm leathers such as Epsom or Chèvre. A Retourne Kelly is stitched inside out and then turned, which produces rounded edges and a softer body, often in Togo. In the US, a Kelly 25 Sellier in Chèvre is $14,700, against $13,700 for a 25 Retourne in Togo.

Do Hermès bags go up in value?

Quota bags generally hold or exceed their retail price. The Birkin, Kelly and Constance are allocated by boutiques, so pre-owned examples often sell above retail. In our own catalogue, a pre-owned Birkin 25 sells at a median of 285 percent of its 2026 boutique price. Annual boutique price increases, such as the 6 to 9 percent rise in January 2026, also lift the market. Results still vary by size, leather, colour, hardware and condition, so no bag is a guaranteed investment.

What does the Hermès blind stamp mean?

The blind stamp is a small letter pressed into the leather that shows the year a bag was made. Hermès cycles through the alphabet, so the shape around the letter identifies the era. Mid-century pieces have no frame, 1971 to 1996 uses a circle and 1997 to 2014 uses a square. From 2015 the letter appears without a frame again. Specialists read the blind stamp together with the heat stamp, stitching and hardware during authentication.

Is it safe to buy pre-owned Hermès?

Yes, provided specialists who know the house have authenticated the bag. Our specialists check the blind stamp and the HERMÈS PARIS MADE IN FRANCE heat stamp. They also inspect the evenness and angle of the saddle stitching, the touret, and the numbered padlock and keys. They grade condition too, with close attention to corners, handles and hardware. Buying pre-owned also opens access to discontinued colours and vintage pieces that boutiques no longer sell.

Keep reading

• Hermès Birkin vs Kelly — Birkin vs Kelly, settled: design, sizes, 2026 prices and resale data, plus a decision checklist for choosing your first or next Hermès bag.
• How to Authenticate an Hermès Birkin & Kelly — Our specialists’ complete guide to authenticating an Hermès Birkin or Kelly: blind-stamp cycles, heat stamp, saddle stitching, hardware and leather.
• Is the Hermès Birkin Really a Good Investment? — The honest answer on Birkins as an investment: the data, the price history, the catches, and which Birkin to buy.
• The Complete Chanel Bag Guide — Every classic Chanel bag, from the 1955 2.55 to the Chanel 22, with sizes, April 2026 US prices, leathers, hardware and clear advice on which to buy.

Browse all Collector Edit guides: authentication, buying guides, value and brand history.